With the paint barely dry on the walls (metaphorically speaking), this past weekend saw a flurry of activity as the entire Focus PT team kicked it into high gear, loading and unloading car, van and truck fulls of physical therapy related gear from our former location on Hill street as we set up our new digs for full physical therapy/Move studio occupancy.
How did we ever fit all of that stuff in our tiny little office?!?
Many thanks to our staff, their spouses and significant others and our wonderful unerstanding, patient and positive patients for seeing us through our move.
Our new space is absolutely beautiful- wonderful flooring, wall colors, accent lighting, and to top it off, Amy's original works of art in oils and encaustic mediums adorning our walls.
We celebrated last night with our first "house" dance party- what will become a tradition, these monthly dance parties will feature a wide selection of music and partner dance styles. Many thanks to those hardy souls who braved the snow to come by on very last minute notice to help us celebrate our new space.
Feel free to drop by and pay us a visit when you can, and we hope to see you at our open house, Friday February 22nd from 4-7 with music, refreshments and fun.
All the best,
Burke
Thursday, January 31, 2008
Tuesday, January 22, 2008
Surfing in Costa Rica
Every surfing spot has a unique feeling and attitude. Although I surfed in three different spots and checked out five, thats really just a small small sample of what Costa Rica has to offer. Just a few observations:
Playa Guiones
This was our home away from home for most of the trip. Although we had pretty decent swell for most of our stay, Guionnes actually works better with ever so slightly smaller waves. The larger swells tend to make close-out conditions and the gradual sandbar makes paddling more of a workout.
Still, Guiones is where I did most of my surfing, and I caught some of my funnest waves there. Also as an added bonus, the gradual sand shelf makes the inside section a lot more appealing to beginners, and for this trip Amy mastered some of her ages-old fear of the crashing waves, got into it for a few days and by the end of our trip was standing on my little fish board and riding the whitewater like a pro!
South of Nosara
Playa Samara and south
We took a one day drive south along the incredible hilly coastal rode. For this drive a 4wd vehicle was mandatory, as we crossed several low rivers (water up to the bumper, and this was dry season!). Samara has a reputation for a beautiful beach, and it certainly didn't disappoint, but for surfing it was definitely beginners only, with hardly any waves coming through on the same day the Guiones was fun and head high. This could be due to the swell direction, but the overall vibe I got was more about the festive party atmosphere, bars and hotels right along the edge of the sand, and laid-back mellow people. On our shuttle bus over to the coast early in our trip from La Fortuna, there were three couples of all ages headed to Samara, none surfers, then Amy and I and one other surfer guy going to Nosara.
South of Samara things start to get more interesting from a surf perspective. There are dozens of lonely kilometers from Samara, down through the beautiful small hamlet of Punta Islita with its contemporary open air art museum, all the way to Santa Teresa and the excellent powerful rock reefs and surf of Mal Pais. We didn't make it all the way to Mal Pais this trip. By the end of that one day Amy and I were both pretty rattled-out from our bouncy, dusty day.
North of Nosara
Amy, Dan and I took an overnight trip north, to scout out for Leatherback Turtles and surf. Here's what we found:
Playa Negra
Beautiful beach, beautiful people, very rude, local and aggressive surfers who definitely put the bad juju vibes on "outsiders", in stark contrast to the few local Tico surfers who still just radiated Pura Vida, although in a more subdued way. This little spot seems to be permanently staked out by a strong South American contingent from Brazil, Argentina, Chile maybe. Hot people on the beach, hot, fiery latin blood in the water made for a couple of interesting days. The surf there is absolutely unbelievable- picture perfect reef-break with huge barreling waves across a shallow rock reef. Totally make-able and incredibly exhilarating, but the take-off or launch spot is small, as on most reefs, which is why the locals can be so dominating- they have the place wired.
Our first day there, driving up the coast, Dan and I each scored some waves before the "pressure on the boil" (the attitude out in the water) made us come in (well, actually I got massively worked on the inside by a set and just decided to come in- always the prudent one!). We revisited on our way down, waited until a little bit later in the day with a less favorable wind and tide, and Dan and his friend Sundance scored it pretty near flawless.
In summary: this is the model beach- amazing model wave, model perfect people slinking around- I would go back and stay for a couple of nights, hoping to score the wave early, then Amy and I would lounge by the pool and look beautiful... we'll need much smaller bathing suits though...
Playa Grande
We tried unsuccessfully to jump in on a Leatherback Turtle tour- Playa Grande is one of the most well-known areas for seeing these massive creatures laying their eggs on shore. It's no wonder that numbers of female turtles have been declining- Grande is just a short water taxi or a slightly longer drive up from Tamarindo, an exploding tourist destination with huge, fancy resorts, lots of action and general craziness. It's one of the "famous" beach towns, and so many tourists go there for at least part of their trip. Of the handful of these tourists who then came to Nosara, all of them sadly regretted staying in Tamarindo, and instead recommended just a pass-through to check it out, and stay up north at Grande.
The perfect swell that we caught at Playa Negra was also hitting Grande- with it's deep shelf, the waves were beach-break, shifting peaks with tons of power, hitting up and down the beach. I loved Playa Grande and caught lots of great waves there. Also there is something to the energy of that beach- maybe fantasy on my part, but knowing that these incredible turtles return from miles and miles away to lay their eggs in a trance-like state on the beach made it a powerful place for me. Walking along the sand in the early morning Amy pointed out where she found old turtle eggs, where someone (likely a ranger or one of the many volunteers who come to help protect the turtles) had marked an active next with sticks to keep people from walking on it, and where eggs had hatched we could see the marks in the sand made by the baby turtles as they made their way to the sea. Incredible! On our next trip down, doing the turtle tour will be a priority.
Another day driving back to Nosara, we surfed Grande in the am, then made our way back to Negra to meet Dan and Sundance in another car. They surfed Playa Avellones as well before meeting us at Negra. Afterwards we all drove home, happy, dusty and tired.
Burke
Playa Guiones
This was our home away from home for most of the trip. Although we had pretty decent swell for most of our stay, Guionnes actually works better with ever so slightly smaller waves. The larger swells tend to make close-out conditions and the gradual sandbar makes paddling more of a workout.
Still, Guiones is where I did most of my surfing, and I caught some of my funnest waves there. Also as an added bonus, the gradual sand shelf makes the inside section a lot more appealing to beginners, and for this trip Amy mastered some of her ages-old fear of the crashing waves, got into it for a few days and by the end of our trip was standing on my little fish board and riding the whitewater like a pro!
South of Nosara
Playa Samara and south
We took a one day drive south along the incredible hilly coastal rode. For this drive a 4wd vehicle was mandatory, as we crossed several low rivers (water up to the bumper, and this was dry season!). Samara has a reputation for a beautiful beach, and it certainly didn't disappoint, but for surfing it was definitely beginners only, with hardly any waves coming through on the same day the Guiones was fun and head high. This could be due to the swell direction, but the overall vibe I got was more about the festive party atmosphere, bars and hotels right along the edge of the sand, and laid-back mellow people. On our shuttle bus over to the coast early in our trip from La Fortuna, there were three couples of all ages headed to Samara, none surfers, then Amy and I and one other surfer guy going to Nosara.
South of Samara things start to get more interesting from a surf perspective. There are dozens of lonely kilometers from Samara, down through the beautiful small hamlet of Punta Islita with its contemporary open air art museum, all the way to Santa Teresa and the excellent powerful rock reefs and surf of Mal Pais. We didn't make it all the way to Mal Pais this trip. By the end of that one day Amy and I were both pretty rattled-out from our bouncy, dusty day.
North of Nosara
Amy, Dan and I took an overnight trip north, to scout out for Leatherback Turtles and surf. Here's what we found:
Playa Negra
Beautiful beach, beautiful people, very rude, local and aggressive surfers who definitely put the bad juju vibes on "outsiders", in stark contrast to the few local Tico surfers who still just radiated Pura Vida, although in a more subdued way. This little spot seems to be permanently staked out by a strong South American contingent from Brazil, Argentina, Chile maybe. Hot people on the beach, hot, fiery latin blood in the water made for a couple of interesting days. The surf there is absolutely unbelievable- picture perfect reef-break with huge barreling waves across a shallow rock reef. Totally make-able and incredibly exhilarating, but the take-off or launch spot is small, as on most reefs, which is why the locals can be so dominating- they have the place wired.
Our first day there, driving up the coast, Dan and I each scored some waves before the "pressure on the boil" (the attitude out in the water) made us come in (well, actually I got massively worked on the inside by a set and just decided to come in- always the prudent one!). We revisited on our way down, waited until a little bit later in the day with a less favorable wind and tide, and Dan and his friend Sundance scored it pretty near flawless.
In summary: this is the model beach- amazing model wave, model perfect people slinking around- I would go back and stay for a couple of nights, hoping to score the wave early, then Amy and I would lounge by the pool and look beautiful... we'll need much smaller bathing suits though...
Playa Grande
We tried unsuccessfully to jump in on a Leatherback Turtle tour- Playa Grande is one of the most well-known areas for seeing these massive creatures laying their eggs on shore. It's no wonder that numbers of female turtles have been declining- Grande is just a short water taxi or a slightly longer drive up from Tamarindo, an exploding tourist destination with huge, fancy resorts, lots of action and general craziness. It's one of the "famous" beach towns, and so many tourists go there for at least part of their trip. Of the handful of these tourists who then came to Nosara, all of them sadly regretted staying in Tamarindo, and instead recommended just a pass-through to check it out, and stay up north at Grande.
The perfect swell that we caught at Playa Negra was also hitting Grande- with it's deep shelf, the waves were beach-break, shifting peaks with tons of power, hitting up and down the beach. I loved Playa Grande and caught lots of great waves there. Also there is something to the energy of that beach- maybe fantasy on my part, but knowing that these incredible turtles return from miles and miles away to lay their eggs in a trance-like state on the beach made it a powerful place for me. Walking along the sand in the early morning Amy pointed out where she found old turtle eggs, where someone (likely a ranger or one of the many volunteers who come to help protect the turtles) had marked an active next with sticks to keep people from walking on it, and where eggs had hatched we could see the marks in the sand made by the baby turtles as they made their way to the sea. Incredible! On our next trip down, doing the turtle tour will be a priority.
Another day driving back to Nosara, we surfed Grande in the am, then made our way back to Negra to meet Dan and Sundance in another car. They surfed Playa Avellones as well before meeting us at Negra. Afterwards we all drove home, happy, dusty and tired.
Burke
Sunday, January 20, 2008
Mackerel continued...
The day after my stingray encounter, my heel is sore but not particularly painful, despite having what is essentially a pencil sized spike stuck in there about two inches (I can see a two inch bruise forming next to the puncture itself). Thanks to my helpful friend at the palapa, all I need is a 2x2 piece of gauze and some tape, and I'm ready to happily limp around. Lucky for me too, because during lunch Amy and I visit Dan's guitar playing bandmate, a fiery and mischevous Argentinean street artist named Juan, who is playing guitar at a local eatery with another Argentinean mate of his. We start chatting and Dan somehow manages to get us all invited to Juan's house down in South Playa Guionnes for a fish fry later that evening.
Some hours later, Amy and I are sharing a ride with Juan, his lovely wife and 16 month old baby as we head south of town towards their house. After parking at the beach and walking along the sand for about 1/2 a mile, we turn inland for a block or two until we arrive at their humble but cozy house tucked into the jungle. Another friend is already there, El Tigre is his name, and together with his wife and 4'ish sone they are starting to prepare for the feast. El Tigre worked cooking for resorts in Mexico, Spain as well as Costa Rica, and he definitely doesn't disappoint.
The menu: Beet and lettuce salad with a lime juice dressing; Tuna, Mackerel and Snapper, sliced open and stuffed with fresh herbs, garlic and onions, cooked whole and spoked in banana leaves over a bed of hot coals next to the fire. We share wine, laughter and plates= this is a fingers only meal, and it's absolutley delicious. Amy and I are thrilled to make new friends, and practice our spanish. As the evening winds down, Juan, Dan and myself have a jam session out on the porch in this incredible jungle (Juan points out an absollutely HUGE yellow spider that's made it's home in a tree just feet from the house - "I can't kill it" he says, "She's too beautiful")
As we make our way back to the beach for the 45' walk back to our room, we arrive on the sand to see the moon, swollen and blood arange yellow and red, dropping into the sea. About halfway home, Dan and Maylin pass by on Dan's enduro motorcycle, Maylin wrapped in a blanket and easily hanging onto dan bleary eyed and sleepy. We wish them good night and walk on in the dark, with the light of the stars reflecting off the whitewater of the surf, full of good spirits, amazing memories and great food.
Burke
Some hours later, Amy and I are sharing a ride with Juan, his lovely wife and 16 month old baby as we head south of town towards their house. After parking at the beach and walking along the sand for about 1/2 a mile, we turn inland for a block or two until we arrive at their humble but cozy house tucked into the jungle. Another friend is already there, El Tigre is his name, and together with his wife and 4'ish sone they are starting to prepare for the feast. El Tigre worked cooking for resorts in Mexico, Spain as well as Costa Rica, and he definitely doesn't disappoint.
The menu: Beet and lettuce salad with a lime juice dressing; Tuna, Mackerel and Snapper, sliced open and stuffed with fresh herbs, garlic and onions, cooked whole and spoked in banana leaves over a bed of hot coals next to the fire. We share wine, laughter and plates= this is a fingers only meal, and it's absolutley delicious. Amy and I are thrilled to make new friends, and practice our spanish. As the evening winds down, Juan, Dan and myself have a jam session out on the porch in this incredible jungle (Juan points out an absollutely HUGE yellow spider that's made it's home in a tree just feet from the house - "I can't kill it" he says, "She's too beautiful")
As we make our way back to the beach for the 45' walk back to our room, we arrive on the sand to see the moon, swollen and blood arange yellow and red, dropping into the sea. About halfway home, Dan and Maylin pass by on Dan's enduro motorcycle, Maylin wrapped in a blanket and easily hanging onto dan bleary eyed and sleepy. We wish them good night and walk on in the dark, with the light of the stars reflecting off the whitewater of the surf, full of good spirits, amazing memories and great food.
Burke
Friday, January 18, 2008
Molasses, Mackarel and Muchagawa
The dark sticky pools at the bottom of the crater sized potholes are molasses, spread by the shops and inn-keepers who pay out of their own pocket for the sticky stuff. When the rains are over sometime in December, the Nicoya Peninsula becomes dry and dusty. The community of locals and ex-pats here all acquire sinus infections and a dry rasp to their voices from travelling the dusty roads.
The thick smell of molasses is still somewhat incongruous, and unexpected here. I can smell it as I limp "home" to the Gilded Iguana from the beach, leaving small splashes of blood in the dust and getting curious looks from other walkers on this early evening just before the sun goes down. Everyone is going the other direction- to the beach where the only scheduled event for most of us revelers on any regular basis is to meet at one of the many haphazard palapas sprinkled around the beach and watch the huge burning sun drop into the ocean.
I was surfing with Dan when I took a wave in to the beach. Amy was out on a borrowed longboard, although the combination of high tide and increased swell caused the waves to be more powerful closer to shore.
I was riding in to check on her and see how she was doing, so I rode as far as I could, and when I was within a few feet of the shoreline and the gathering sunset watchers I jumped off into the shallow water. That's when I felt a sudden sharp stabbing pain in the heel of my left foot. For the past few days Amy and I had felt little "nibbles" on our toes from the crabs on the sandy bottom. This felt a bit more serious. I limped the last few feet to the shore and took a look at the sole of my left foot- blood, lots of blood and a pencil sized hole just at the edge of the bottom of the heel. Already the pain was building and my heel started to swell. I'd always wondered ever since I first heard about stingrays what it actually felt like to be "stung"- I can tell you now it's absolutely no fun, but as a Feldenkrais teacher I was also interested to see how things would progress.
Amy came over to help me up the beach, and we made our way over to one of the palapas where I'd stashed my things. The attendant of this palapa (the only attendent of any of them- this hut happened to be the somewhat "exclusive" domain of one of the fancier hotel/resorts here, where we happen to be currently, poaching their wireless connection and eating a delicious tropical fruit salad). The attendant took one look at my foot and quickly started talking in Spanish as he led me over to the dune. Grabbing handfuls of a small-leafed sandy, viny plant he handed it to me and described how I should boil this "muchagawa" in hot water, and then cool it minimally and soak my foot in it to take the poison out.
So back to the molasses- I'm carrying my left sandal, limping along the road, with my surfboard under one arm with my sandal held in a few fingers, and a stout bunch of muchagawa in my other hand, alternately smiling and wincing at the passersby, and trying to avoid stepping in the puddles of molasses with the toes of my left foot. Strange, I can feel some sensation now all the way up in my left groin- I'm not sure if it's from the limping I'm doing, or from the poison.
Back at the iguana, I walk over to Carlos, one of their many excellent combo bartenders, waiters and general do-it-all types. He throws the muchagawa in hot water in I spend the next couple of hours with Amy, drinking rum and soaking my foot.
The next night Amy and I join Dan for an authentic cookout and fish bake at some new friends house, but right now we're getting the stinkeye from the staff at this hotel and I need to sign off.
Till next time,
Burke and Amy
The thick smell of molasses is still somewhat incongruous, and unexpected here. I can smell it as I limp "home" to the Gilded Iguana from the beach, leaving small splashes of blood in the dust and getting curious looks from other walkers on this early evening just before the sun goes down. Everyone is going the other direction- to the beach where the only scheduled event for most of us revelers on any regular basis is to meet at one of the many haphazard palapas sprinkled around the beach and watch the huge burning sun drop into the ocean.
I was surfing with Dan when I took a wave in to the beach. Amy was out on a borrowed longboard, although the combination of high tide and increased swell caused the waves to be more powerful closer to shore.
I was riding in to check on her and see how she was doing, so I rode as far as I could, and when I was within a few feet of the shoreline and the gathering sunset watchers I jumped off into the shallow water. That's when I felt a sudden sharp stabbing pain in the heel of my left foot. For the past few days Amy and I had felt little "nibbles" on our toes from the crabs on the sandy bottom. This felt a bit more serious. I limped the last few feet to the shore and took a look at the sole of my left foot- blood, lots of blood and a pencil sized hole just at the edge of the bottom of the heel. Already the pain was building and my heel started to swell. I'd always wondered ever since I first heard about stingrays what it actually felt like to be "stung"- I can tell you now it's absolutely no fun, but as a Feldenkrais teacher I was also interested to see how things would progress.
Amy came over to help me up the beach, and we made our way over to one of the palapas where I'd stashed my things. The attendant of this palapa (the only attendent of any of them- this hut happened to be the somewhat "exclusive" domain of one of the fancier hotel/resorts here, where we happen to be currently, poaching their wireless connection and eating a delicious tropical fruit salad). The attendant took one look at my foot and quickly started talking in Spanish as he led me over to the dune. Grabbing handfuls of a small-leafed sandy, viny plant he handed it to me and described how I should boil this "muchagawa" in hot water, and then cool it minimally and soak my foot in it to take the poison out.
So back to the molasses- I'm carrying my left sandal, limping along the road, with my surfboard under one arm with my sandal held in a few fingers, and a stout bunch of muchagawa in my other hand, alternately smiling and wincing at the passersby, and trying to avoid stepping in the puddles of molasses with the toes of my left foot. Strange, I can feel some sensation now all the way up in my left groin- I'm not sure if it's from the limping I'm doing, or from the poison.
Back at the iguana, I walk over to Carlos, one of their many excellent combo bartenders, waiters and general do-it-all types. He throws the muchagawa in hot water in I spend the next couple of hours with Amy, drinking rum and soaking my foot.
The next night Amy and I join Dan for an authentic cookout and fish bake at some new friends house, but right now we're getting the stinkeye from the staff at this hotel and I need to sign off.
Till next time,
Burke and Amy
Saturday, January 12, 2008
Nosara, Costa Rica
From the damp, cool foot hills of the northern volcanoes, we hired a shuttle bus that took us the long way around lake Arenal, past the beautiful rolling hills, so much like parts of central california, past the "head" of the lake, with excellent wind for windsurfing and finally into the dry, dusty forests of the Nicoya Peninsula and Nosara.
Our time here so far: Wake up at 5:30 am with the light, stroll down to the beach with my newly repaired surfboard and surf the early morning offshore blowing waves until breakfast at 8 ish with Amy. Then, it´s back to the beach with Amy´s rented longboard for another session, this time on the inside of the surf helping Amy into waves. With our first longboard, "big red", she could stand easily on its 10 feet of killer stoke on practically every wave. The past couple of days ve´ve had smaller boards for her in the 9 foot range- more challenging for her, but easier to manage and less bruising on her sides from standing next to the board in the whitewater.
Yesterday we finally connected with my longtime friend Dan, from the Humboldt County days, and his Tican girlfriend Maylin. Dan has lived here for years, and has done everything from running a surf hostel to teaching Spanish and surfing to visitors and now working as activities coordinator for a fancy hillside lodge. After a rough couple of weeks on the job, his future at this lodge is uncertain, but it may be a blessing in disguise and could help him get motivated to launch his own travel guiding business here in Costa Rica.
Out on the water with Dan this am in clean shoulder to head high peaks, Dan is a diplomate, greeting what seems like 3/4s of the surfers in the water, who are actually locals and ex-pats who´ve come out for the slight jump in swell that came in overnight. The conversation on the water is easy- How have the waves been; who´s back in town; who has work or needs work; where are the happening parties. Amy and I have glided into this world very marginally through association, and quitely soak in the atmosphere and vibes. Our stay at the Iguana will come to an end tomorrow, and after poaring over our tour book and talking with people, we´ve decided to remain in Nosara for the next week, however we´ll rent a car for a few days for excursions. We hear there are leatherback turtles up north, and beautiful white sand and coral beaches perfect for snorkeling. Down south are the surf towns of Montezuma and Mal Pais, which has recently grown into an Israeli and Brazillian dominated party surf town on the southern tip of the peninsula. We´ll be staying next week with Dan´s friend Bob, in his house on the hills by the incredible Greek-built Moorish inspired Hotel Nosara.
The pace is slow here, and the mid-day heat serves well to keep ambitions low. A soda or fresh fruit shake under the ranchero; a dip in the pool; a nap or just reading a book until the heat of the day starts to slide away and the wind drops, making for the evening surf session.
This afternoon, after a nice lunch at a terraced beautiful hotel with great pizza (according to Amy of course!) with new friends Andy, Muriel and Kristin from Truckee, Lake Tahoe, Amy and I walked to a couple of the car rental places to ask about prices and availability. The north American, western part of me wanted to get everything planned, squared away and figured out- happily I discovered this part is mostly resting now, and Amy and I walked away from these businesses without have set anything in stone, just with big smiles all around and reassurances of "en la mañana" and "chao".
so for now,
mas tarde from CR
Burke
Our time here so far: Wake up at 5:30 am with the light, stroll down to the beach with my newly repaired surfboard and surf the early morning offshore blowing waves until breakfast at 8 ish with Amy. Then, it´s back to the beach with Amy´s rented longboard for another session, this time on the inside of the surf helping Amy into waves. With our first longboard, "big red", she could stand easily on its 10 feet of killer stoke on practically every wave. The past couple of days ve´ve had smaller boards for her in the 9 foot range- more challenging for her, but easier to manage and less bruising on her sides from standing next to the board in the whitewater.
Yesterday we finally connected with my longtime friend Dan, from the Humboldt County days, and his Tican girlfriend Maylin. Dan has lived here for years, and has done everything from running a surf hostel to teaching Spanish and surfing to visitors and now working as activities coordinator for a fancy hillside lodge. After a rough couple of weeks on the job, his future at this lodge is uncertain, but it may be a blessing in disguise and could help him get motivated to launch his own travel guiding business here in Costa Rica.
Out on the water with Dan this am in clean shoulder to head high peaks, Dan is a diplomate, greeting what seems like 3/4s of the surfers in the water, who are actually locals and ex-pats who´ve come out for the slight jump in swell that came in overnight. The conversation on the water is easy- How have the waves been; who´s back in town; who has work or needs work; where are the happening parties. Amy and I have glided into this world very marginally through association, and quitely soak in the atmosphere and vibes. Our stay at the Iguana will come to an end tomorrow, and after poaring over our tour book and talking with people, we´ve decided to remain in Nosara for the next week, however we´ll rent a car for a few days for excursions. We hear there are leatherback turtles up north, and beautiful white sand and coral beaches perfect for snorkeling. Down south are the surf towns of Montezuma and Mal Pais, which has recently grown into an Israeli and Brazillian dominated party surf town on the southern tip of the peninsula. We´ll be staying next week with Dan´s friend Bob, in his house on the hills by the incredible Greek-built Moorish inspired Hotel Nosara.
The pace is slow here, and the mid-day heat serves well to keep ambitions low. A soda or fresh fruit shake under the ranchero; a dip in the pool; a nap or just reading a book until the heat of the day starts to slide away and the wind drops, making for the evening surf session.
This afternoon, after a nice lunch at a terraced beautiful hotel with great pizza (according to Amy of course!) with new friends Andy, Muriel and Kristin from Truckee, Lake Tahoe, Amy and I walked to a couple of the car rental places to ask about prices and availability. The north American, western part of me wanted to get everything planned, squared away and figured out- happily I discovered this part is mostly resting now, and Amy and I walked away from these businesses without have set anything in stone, just with big smiles all around and reassurances of "en la mañana" and "chao".
so for now,
mas tarde from CR
Burke
Wednesday, January 9, 2008
Greetings from Costa Rica
initial impressions:
wind, wind, wind and rain on the flight transfer in LAX- Amy and I are scrambling to make our connection, literally running the half mile or so between the terminals. The last leg of our flight into San Jose is highlighted by the ultra-casual, joking flight attendants who spend much of the flight hanging out with a few teenagers from a large group, just chatting and shooting the breeze.
Alajuela is our first stop- a small town that´s the actual home of the airport, we walk the narrow streets and enjoy our first taste of Costa Rican hospitality and food. There are many locals around, with very few foreigners, just enjoying the air, the park, laughing, talking loudly, working. After the US, the feeling is close, personal, intimate, a little overwhelming but not in a bad or unsafe way- Amy and I retreat to our inexpensive hotel with the tiny cold water trickle shower and the beautiful smile of the non-English speaking hostess to enjoy our first Tican breakfast of fresh fruit and toast.
We walk to the bus station the next morning, and are plyed by a local cab driver with questions in a mix of Spanish and English- where are you going? La Fortuna and the volcano at Arenal? $60 to take us there. We´ll wait.
45 minutes later the bus still hasn´t arrived, two Americans approach us. They´re planning to go to the cloud forest in Monteverde, but when they hear our plan and our cab offer, we pool our resources and hire Oliver to take us to La Fortuna. For $15-person Oliver drives like crazy through the windy roads into the mountains, passing every other car in the wind, mist and fog, all the while shouting into his cell phone and arguing with his girlfriend who is waiting for him in San Ramon along the way. Needless to say we stop there so he can by turns argue and console her, before asking us if she can join us in his little care, already full of four people. "is $10 a person, please can she come" Although Amy and I briefly consider it, the two women from Colorado are both green from the drive and dry heaving, and firmly decline.
Our now decidedly grumpy driver pilots us even more recklessly until he has a chance to cool down, then he and I chat in Spanglish about formula one race car driving, of which he (obviously) is a fan. We arrive in one piece in two hours. The bus I find out later takes most travelers 4 and a 1-2 hours.
brief highlights up till now-
La Fortuna is very turista- thousands if not millions of the tourists who come through here make their way to this active vocano in the hopes of seeing the lava erupting just several kilometers away. With clouds obscuring our view the whole time, we´re content to enjoy the thermal baths, a beautiful waterfall hike and an afternoon of kayaking on lake Arenal with a personal guide pointing out an incredible array of wildlife. The casados, the typical meals of the Costa Ricans, are delicious and simple. Both Amy and I feel this food will do us good.
A 5 hour, 3-leg van journey brings us to our current destination, the small coastal town of Nosara, and the beach Playa Guiones. This town is teeming with surfers and expats, and so far feels abit like summer camp for surfers, this feeling heightened by the massive party held at our resort the Gilded Iguana www.gildediguana.com on our first night here.
Although my surfboard did not make our LA connection, the San Jose airport US airways guy was super helpful, and sent the board ahead to meet us here in Nosara for our arrival. Sadly, on opening the bag I discovered an absolutely huge crushed ding in the upper part of the board. The local surf shop owner just shook his head in dismay, but is working on it now. In the meantime i´ve rented a board for the day and had my first taste of the surf- 3-4 feet, mellow peeling right and lefts along the beach. Although there are many surfers, people are spread out and the vibe is mellow. They tell me it´s currently "pretty bad" by their standards, so no one is getting to excited about anything. There are lots of beginners too, and many norteamericanos who don´t live here permanently, but are here for as many as 4 months. One couple from lake tahoe rent their house through the four months of the winter and spend their time traveling Central America- sounds nice!
This afternoon Amy and I will rent bikes and explore the area, catch a surf this afternoon and this evening enjoy the bottle of Nicaraguan rum, called Flor de Cana, with lime and coke from our rooms awesome balcony overlooking the action below.
People here on the beach, locals and turistas alike really do say Pura Vida, all the time.
Pura Vida!
Burke
wind, wind, wind and rain on the flight transfer in LAX- Amy and I are scrambling to make our connection, literally running the half mile or so between the terminals. The last leg of our flight into San Jose is highlighted by the ultra-casual, joking flight attendants who spend much of the flight hanging out with a few teenagers from a large group, just chatting and shooting the breeze.
Alajuela is our first stop- a small town that´s the actual home of the airport, we walk the narrow streets and enjoy our first taste of Costa Rican hospitality and food. There are many locals around, with very few foreigners, just enjoying the air, the park, laughing, talking loudly, working. After the US, the feeling is close, personal, intimate, a little overwhelming but not in a bad or unsafe way- Amy and I retreat to our inexpensive hotel with the tiny cold water trickle shower and the beautiful smile of the non-English speaking hostess to enjoy our first Tican breakfast of fresh fruit and toast.
We walk to the bus station the next morning, and are plyed by a local cab driver with questions in a mix of Spanish and English- where are you going? La Fortuna and the volcano at Arenal? $60 to take us there. We´ll wait.
45 minutes later the bus still hasn´t arrived, two Americans approach us. They´re planning to go to the cloud forest in Monteverde, but when they hear our plan and our cab offer, we pool our resources and hire Oliver to take us to La Fortuna. For $15-person Oliver drives like crazy through the windy roads into the mountains, passing every other car in the wind, mist and fog, all the while shouting into his cell phone and arguing with his girlfriend who is waiting for him in San Ramon along the way. Needless to say we stop there so he can by turns argue and console her, before asking us if she can join us in his little care, already full of four people. "is $10 a person, please can she come" Although Amy and I briefly consider it, the two women from Colorado are both green from the drive and dry heaving, and firmly decline.
Our now decidedly grumpy driver pilots us even more recklessly until he has a chance to cool down, then he and I chat in Spanglish about formula one race car driving, of which he (obviously) is a fan. We arrive in one piece in two hours. The bus I find out later takes most travelers 4 and a 1-2 hours.
brief highlights up till now-
La Fortuna is very turista- thousands if not millions of the tourists who come through here make their way to this active vocano in the hopes of seeing the lava erupting just several kilometers away. With clouds obscuring our view the whole time, we´re content to enjoy the thermal baths, a beautiful waterfall hike and an afternoon of kayaking on lake Arenal with a personal guide pointing out an incredible array of wildlife. The casados, the typical meals of the Costa Ricans, are delicious and simple. Both Amy and I feel this food will do us good.
A 5 hour, 3-leg van journey brings us to our current destination, the small coastal town of Nosara, and the beach Playa Guiones. This town is teeming with surfers and expats, and so far feels abit like summer camp for surfers, this feeling heightened by the massive party held at our resort the Gilded Iguana www.gildediguana.com on our first night here.
Although my surfboard did not make our LA connection, the San Jose airport US airways guy was super helpful, and sent the board ahead to meet us here in Nosara for our arrival. Sadly, on opening the bag I discovered an absolutely huge crushed ding in the upper part of the board. The local surf shop owner just shook his head in dismay, but is working on it now. In the meantime i´ve rented a board for the day and had my first taste of the surf- 3-4 feet, mellow peeling right and lefts along the beach. Although there are many surfers, people are spread out and the vibe is mellow. They tell me it´s currently "pretty bad" by their standards, so no one is getting to excited about anything. There are lots of beginners too, and many norteamericanos who don´t live here permanently, but are here for as many as 4 months. One couple from lake tahoe rent their house through the four months of the winter and spend their time traveling Central America- sounds nice!
This afternoon Amy and I will rent bikes and explore the area, catch a surf this afternoon and this evening enjoy the bottle of Nicaraguan rum, called Flor de Cana, with lime and coke from our rooms awesome balcony overlooking the action below.
People here on the beach, locals and turistas alike really do say Pura Vida, all the time.
Pura Vida!
Burke
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